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Posted on 7:21 AM by Wanto and filed under
By James Pollock

Caught up in the fast pace of the present day we often forget age-old culinary treats that made life pleasant for our ancestors. One of the most aromatic is the inconspicuous savory, recommended by Vergil to his countrymen.

It is a biennial with large leaves and tall stems up to 1 m (3 ft) high, and a good plant for the herb garden because it is hardy and the leaves may be used throughout the winter when fresh herbs are scarce.

In the Middle Ages it was called `Oculus Christi', meaning the eye of Christ, and was added to vegetables and to meat dishes to give them a subtler taste. The famous French book Le menagier de Paris includes it among the herbs for flavouring vegetable omelettes and in a recipe for a green marinade for preserving fish. The seeds of clary were believed to counter 'eye weakness'.

Nowadays they are used to flavour compotes, jellies and jams. They may also be added to flaky pastry. The flowers or extracts prepared from the flowers are also used by the pharmaceutical industry in medicines that stimulate secretion of the sweat glands. The berries have a strong flavour and are used to make jams and juices rich in Vitamin C.

Their chief attraction in cookery is their lovely red colour which dissolves well in water. In former times elderberries were used to colour wine, chiefly port. They are added in small amounts to apple and pear compotes. In some north European countries they are used to make a fruit soup, eaten with baked apples and dumplings or toasted bread. They are also the principal ingredient of an old English ketchup called poulac.

The old branches of elderberry bushes are sometimes attacked by the fungus Hirneola auricula-judae - a popular food in China and Japan.

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