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Posted on 5:15 AM by Wanto and filed under
By Kristen Edward
A rough guide to the selection of suitable plants can be gained from observing what grows in similar conditions in the wild. In exposed places in Europe one often finds silver birch, mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia), pines (shrubby varieties are good on a roof), heathers and gorse. The trouble with any kind of wind break is that, although it lessens the wind pressure in one place, it may increase it elsewhere.
A well planned garden should make the most of variations in the microclimate. The plants behind the pond and under the tree-Himalayan poppies, rhubarb, hostas and primula -all like shade and moisture; the fruit trees are trained up against the wall, since brick stores and re-radiates solar heat long after the sun has gone off the garden; and the vegetables are planted on a south-facing slope to catch the full benefit of the sun's rays.
The sun's rays are important because provide the source of energy used in the of photosynthesis, shown here for the tom plant. Solar energy, which is assimilated in the green parts of the plant, causes carbon dioxide (taken in from the atmosphere) to be combine into carbon monoxide and oxygen; they them combine with water brought up from the soil to make the starch which the plant needs in order to grow. Oxygen and water vapour are given.
The incidence of frost will be less under overhanging trees and covering the ground with materials such as straw or sacking will also help to reduce night-time heat loss. A free flow of air, ensuring that cooled air gets whipped away by the wind before its temperature drops too far, prevents the formation of frost pockets.
The lateness of late frost, for example, affects early planting, early sowing, fruit tree blossom, potatoes and the safe point at which to bed out dahlias and geraniums. At the other end of the season, it is a good thing to know when to take in plants which are not frost hardy.
The most common problem in the countryside is the direct force of the wind, whereas in town it is more often draught, or wind coming in sudden gusts which has been re-routed round buildings, that damages plants. Balcony and roof gardens may be particularly exposed to the wind. Wind breaks can be made from a variety of materials, including plants which do not themselves mind high wind speeds. Solid barriers create areas of turbulence so an open-work fence, a broken wall, a group of plants or another form of partial wind break may be the better solution.
A well planned garden should make the most of variations in the microclimate. The plants behind the pond and under the tree-Himalayan poppies, rhubarb, hostas and primula -all like shade and moisture; the fruit trees are trained up against the wall, since brick stores and re-radiates solar heat long after the sun has gone off the garden; and the vegetables are planted on a south-facing slope to catch the full benefit of the sun's rays.
The sun's rays are important because provide the source of energy used in the of photosynthesis, shown here for the tom plant. Solar energy, which is assimilated in the green parts of the plant, causes carbon dioxide (taken in from the atmosphere) to be combine into carbon monoxide and oxygen; they them combine with water brought up from the soil to make the starch which the plant needs in order to grow. Oxygen and water vapour are given.
The incidence of frost will be less under overhanging trees and covering the ground with materials such as straw or sacking will also help to reduce night-time heat loss. A free flow of air, ensuring that cooled air gets whipped away by the wind before its temperature drops too far, prevents the formation of frost pockets.
The lateness of late frost, for example, affects early planting, early sowing, fruit tree blossom, potatoes and the safe point at which to bed out dahlias and geraniums. At the other end of the season, it is a good thing to know when to take in plants which are not frost hardy.
The most common problem in the countryside is the direct force of the wind, whereas in town it is more often draught, or wind coming in sudden gusts which has been re-routed round buildings, that damages plants. Balcony and roof gardens may be particularly exposed to the wind. Wind breaks can be made from a variety of materials, including plants which do not themselves mind high wind speeds. Solid barriers create areas of turbulence so an open-work fence, a broken wall, a group of plants or another form of partial wind break may be the better solution.
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Selecting suitable plants that suit to the climate of the region of your garden is important in garden planning.
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