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Posted on 11:16 PM by Wanto and filed under
By Susan Richardson
Plants from the Odontoglossum alliance are extremely reluctant to grow from the older pseudobulbs. It seems that any spare eyes that are not activated while they are young deteriorate rapidly, losing the ability to grow within a year or two. For this reason, odontoglossums are propagated differently from other sympodial orchids, but the method carries a greater risk to the plant and is not to be undertaken lightly.
Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.
Although a few eyes may form around the base of one pseudobulb, only one, or occasionally two, will be activated and develop into the new growths that eventually mature into pseudobulbs. If the first eye to grow is damaged or otherwise prevented from growing, a second will take over and grow, giving the plant a second chance.
Generally, a plant that is growing well has no need to produce further growths .hen the main stem is damaged the plant prevented from growing in its centre, perhaps because of rot or mermanical damage, will a new growth !re alai-rated near the base. This ability to propagate can be encouraged in large plants, when meassary, but it is not without some risk, arid should only be attempted if it is in the plant's interest to do so.
When a plant has too many leafless back bulbs, these can be severed at repotting time. Divided singly, these can be potted up on their own in a small pot and placed in a propagator or warm, light spot, where the dormant eye will start into growth within a few weeks.
Where there is a lack of aerial roots on the top portion of the plant, encourage them to grow by wrapping the stem in sphagnum moss or similar moisture-holding material, covering it with polythene (plastic) and tying it into position. Keeping the moss wet will encourage roots to form.
Do this before cutting off the top portion of the plant, which will not succeed otherwise. 0 Cut lengths of stem at least 25cm ( I Oin) long from the plant (in this case Dendrobiwn nobile), cutting just above a node (growing point). It can take as much as 12 months before any new roots are seen, and this process is not guaranteed to be successful.
Alternatively, you can take stem cuttings from orchids such as dendrobiums and thunias by laying stem lengths on their sides in a seed tray. A new plant will emerge from the node in a few months. Again, this is a longterm procedure and is only worth doing if you want a number of young plants identical to the main plant.
Phalaenopsis occasionally produce keikis or adventitious growths from the old flowering stems. This is frequently seen with the species Phalaenopsis lueddemanniana and related species or hybrids. If you want to encourage new growth in this way, you can treat the flowering stems with keiki paste - a growth hormone enhancement that is available from some specialist nurseries or orchid sundry firms. First remove the small green bract that protects each node along the stem, then apply the paste.
Although a few eyes may form around the base of one pseudobulb, only one, or occasionally two, will be activated and develop into the new growths that eventually mature into pseudobulbs. If the first eye to grow is damaged or otherwise prevented from growing, a second will take over and grow, giving the plant a second chance.
Generally, a plant that is growing well has no need to produce further growths .hen the main stem is damaged the plant prevented from growing in its centre, perhaps because of rot or mermanical damage, will a new growth !re alai-rated near the base. This ability to propagate can be encouraged in large plants, when meassary, but it is not without some risk, arid should only be attempted if it is in the plant's interest to do so.
When a plant has too many leafless back bulbs, these can be severed at repotting time. Divided singly, these can be potted up on their own in a small pot and placed in a propagator or warm, light spot, where the dormant eye will start into growth within a few weeks.
Where there is a lack of aerial roots on the top portion of the plant, encourage them to grow by wrapping the stem in sphagnum moss or similar moisture-holding material, covering it with polythene (plastic) and tying it into position. Keeping the moss wet will encourage roots to form.
Do this before cutting off the top portion of the plant, which will not succeed otherwise. 0 Cut lengths of stem at least 25cm ( I Oin) long from the plant (in this case Dendrobiwn nobile), cutting just above a node (growing point). It can take as much as 12 months before any new roots are seen, and this process is not guaranteed to be successful.
Alternatively, you can take stem cuttings from orchids such as dendrobiums and thunias by laying stem lengths on their sides in a seed tray. A new plant will emerge from the node in a few months. Again, this is a longterm procedure and is only worth doing if you want a number of young plants identical to the main plant.
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