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Posted on 10:26 AM by Wanto and filed under
By Patrick Samson

Another method of increasing certain shrubs and their garden varieties is grafting and budding, where part of the plant to be propagated, either a graft or a bud, is transferred and attached to well-rooted stock of a common species. For some shrubs and fruits this is practically the only and most reliable means of propagation (tea roses, lilac, magnolia, apples and pears).

Another method of vegetative propagation is budding, a form of grafting used for roses, lilacs, medlars, hawthorns and other woody plants. The best time for this is summer (from late June till mid-September). A well-developed bud with a piece of leaf stalk and shield of bark is cut from the plant to be propagated.

It is necessary to stress that care and precision are important requirements of grafting and budding. The knife used to prepare the scion and the stock must be well sharpened, the cuts must be straight and smooth and their surface must not be soiled by the fingers or otherwise.

The best time for grafting in the open is early spring (March to April), when the stocks begin to bud. In the greenhouse, where the scions are grafted onto potted and budding stocks, the, best time is January and February. The branches for grafting are preferably cut about one month or more before grafting and heeled in agains(a shady wall or in the refrigerator. The actual scions are prepared from these branches just before grafting.

Several different forms of grafting are used in the propagation of shrubs. The simplest is whip or tongue grafting, employed where the stock and scion are of similar thickness. With this method the scion, cut downward at an angle, is placed against the stock, cut at a corresponding angle to the scion.

The time for pruning is the winter, but not when the temperature is below freezing point. Shrubs that put out leaves early in spring should be pruned earlier; those that put out leaves later may be pruned later - any time up to the beginning of May. Wherever possible, the cut is made just above the bud so that there will be no remains of the old, dead and dry wood above the new shoots.

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