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Posted on 10:06 PM by Wanto and filed under
By Michael Smith
Commence packing by lining the boxes with soft paper, then place rolls of paper or corrugated cardboard across the width of the box. These rolls should be large enough in diameter to support the bloom without crushing the back florets against the base of the box, and long enough to hold in position by pressure against the sides.
This may not be possible if the blooms are very large, in which case the position should be reversed. If five or six blooms are required they should be staged in an approximate circle round a central bloom.
All blooms should face the front, not quite touching each other, and facing slightly upwards. They should be staged high, on long stems, although not so high that the height is out of proportion with the size of bloom. If possible, and provided the schedule allows this, stage blooms of one variety providing all the blooms are of equal merit. If one or more blooms are not up to the standard of the others, or are of a different size, then it is best to bring in blooms of another variety if these are of much the same size and formation.
Another row is laid in at the other end of the box, passing the ends of the stems under the supporting roll at the opposite end. Lighter rolls are then laid on the stems of these blooms and more blooms laid in at each end threading the stems between those already in position. Carry on in this fashion until the box is full.
The angle at which the individual blooms are held should also coincide if this is possible. Ideally, each should he held at an angle of 45 as compared to the stem, but it is not always possible to select blooms with this ideal characteristic which are perfect in all other respects. I, however, with care, it is usually possible to arrange the blooms in such a fashion that all are held at the same apparent angle, despite differing in actuality.
Examine each bloom as you take it out of the box for damage, then remove the bottom inch of the stem under water to ensure that water is taken up quickly and easily. Incidentally if the blooms have been out of water for some hours they may be very limp, and may take a couple of hours or even more to regain turgidity, so remember this when starting your journey and allow ample time for recovery. If some blooms seem unable to take up water, try inserting the blade of a knife through a joint just below the top of the water, giving a gentle twist at the same time to open the gap. This will usually be effective, particularly if the gap is kept open by inserting a thin matchstick. Certain blooms tend to softness in the stem when dry -Edna D is a notorious example of this-and a light cane should be tied to the stem of such varieties when putting into water. This will keep the stem straight until the cells become stiff with water when it can be removed, just before leaving the hall after staging.
This may not be possible if the blooms are very large, in which case the position should be reversed. If five or six blooms are required they should be staged in an approximate circle round a central bloom.
All blooms should face the front, not quite touching each other, and facing slightly upwards. They should be staged high, on long stems, although not so high that the height is out of proportion with the size of bloom. If possible, and provided the schedule allows this, stage blooms of one variety providing all the blooms are of equal merit. If one or more blooms are not up to the standard of the others, or are of a different size, then it is best to bring in blooms of another variety if these are of much the same size and formation.
Another row is laid in at the other end of the box, passing the ends of the stems under the supporting roll at the opposite end. Lighter rolls are then laid on the stems of these blooms and more blooms laid in at each end threading the stems between those already in position. Carry on in this fashion until the box is full.
The angle at which the individual blooms are held should also coincide if this is possible. Ideally, each should he held at an angle of 45 as compared to the stem, but it is not always possible to select blooms with this ideal characteristic which are perfect in all other respects. I, however, with care, it is usually possible to arrange the blooms in such a fashion that all are held at the same apparent angle, despite differing in actuality.
Examine each bloom as you take it out of the box for damage, then remove the bottom inch of the stem under water to ensure that water is taken up quickly and easily. Incidentally if the blooms have been out of water for some hours they may be very limp, and may take a couple of hours or even more to regain turgidity, so remember this when starting your journey and allow ample time for recovery. If some blooms seem unable to take up water, try inserting the blade of a knife through a joint just below the top of the water, giving a gentle twist at the same time to open the gap. This will usually be effective, particularly if the gap is kept open by inserting a thin matchstick. Certain blooms tend to softness in the stem when dry -Edna D is a notorious example of this-and a light cane should be tied to the stem of such varieties when putting into water. This will keep the stem straight until the cells become stiff with water when it can be removed, just before leaving the hall after staging.
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