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Posted on 12:20 PM by Wanto and filed under
By Catherine Howard
The supporting stakes for the dahlias should be stout and strong. Wooden stakes are the most popular, but these should be treated with wood preservative at the base to prevent rotting and possible breakage later in the season. Lengths of iron piping can he used and will make excellent stakes, being strong and very long lasting, with no risk from breakages.
Some growers on heavy soil consider that this practice is liable to lead to waterlogging, when the plant to all practical purpose drowns in stagnant water, but this is unlikely. On the other hand, making the hollow is hard work and if the ground is mulched well, it will still soak up a great deal of water without the surplus running off.
Whatever form of staking is used it should be strong enough and long enough to support a well grown plant. With regard to length, it is sufficient if it is long enough to be driven 12 to 18 in. in the ground and still project out of the ground to a height 1 ft below the estimated height of the plant.
At the risk of becoming boring by repeating what was said in an earlier chapter, when planting do consider the height of each plant, and also the colour, and plant accordingly to allow the maximum amount of light and to gain the most beautiful display. And also remember that for exhibition it is best to keep plants of a similar classification close to each other as this helps when thinning, disbudding and feeding.
Just one other point must he considered at this time and that is the possibility of a late frost. Normally there is little chance of a severe frost after the dates mentioned earlier, but it is never safe to assume that there will not be one. It is better to be safe than sorry- this may be a cliche but it is very true. Should a frost warning be given take very careful note of local conditions.
Personally I prefer to plant in a hollow, and to keep this hollow free from earth throughout the growing season as this then forms a reservoir for water, whether given by hose pipe, by watering can or by the goodness of nature in the form of rain.
Some growers on heavy soil consider that this practice is liable to lead to waterlogging, when the plant to all practical purpose drowns in stagnant water, but this is unlikely. On the other hand, making the hollow is hard work and if the ground is mulched well, it will still soak up a great deal of water without the surplus running off.
Whatever form of staking is used it should be strong enough and long enough to support a well grown plant. With regard to length, it is sufficient if it is long enough to be driven 12 to 18 in. in the ground and still project out of the ground to a height 1 ft below the estimated height of the plant.
At the risk of becoming boring by repeating what was said in an earlier chapter, when planting do consider the height of each plant, and also the colour, and plant accordingly to allow the maximum amount of light and to gain the most beautiful display. And also remember that for exhibition it is best to keep plants of a similar classification close to each other as this helps when thinning, disbudding and feeding.
Just one other point must he considered at this time and that is the possibility of a late frost. Normally there is little chance of a severe frost after the dates mentioned earlier, but it is never safe to assume that there will not be one. It is better to be safe than sorry- this may be a cliche but it is very true. Should a frost warning be given take very careful note of local conditions.
Personally I prefer to plant in a hollow, and to keep this hollow free from earth throughout the growing season as this then forms a reservoir for water, whether given by hose pipe, by watering can or by the goodness of nature in the form of rain.
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