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Posted on 4:52 AM by Wanto and filed under
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Fruit Trees
By James Wilkinson
Trees planted in an already established orchard are curiously enough slow to make headway, and therefore in such cases I always advise grubbing.
Having decided that one is going to keep the trees, it is then necessary to start on the renovation scheme. This may begin with the removal of large numbers of trees because the orchard has been overplanted.
The cut is made deep enough to go right through the cambium layer and into the wood. Fruit growers have for some years been adopting this method for curing trees which appeared to be 'bark bound' but it is not generally known that it is a cure for silver leaf as well and on some farms 90 per cent of the trees affected with silver leaf have recovered when treated in this way and borne naturally two years later.
The work should be done in May or early June, if possible, and if the tree is seriously affected with silver leaf, it may show some sign of the disease next year. In this case, the bark should be re-split from top to toe and that should do the trick. In very bad cases one may have to continue this bark cutting for four years.
It is a very good plan to mark the trees which are to be removed with a ring of white paint. If you, yourself, do this, then those you are employing to do the digging up of the trees will not make any mistakes.
The work took forty hours. This method, I understand, does definitely prevent bird damage.
Having decided that one is going to keep the trees, it is then necessary to start on the renovation scheme. This may begin with the removal of large numbers of trees because the orchard has been overplanted.
The cut is made deep enough to go right through the cambium layer and into the wood. Fruit growers have for some years been adopting this method for curing trees which appeared to be 'bark bound' but it is not generally known that it is a cure for silver leaf as well and on some farms 90 per cent of the trees affected with silver leaf have recovered when treated in this way and borne naturally two years later.
The work should be done in May or early June, if possible, and if the tree is seriously affected with silver leaf, it may show some sign of the disease next year. In this case, the bark should be re-split from top to toe and that should do the trick. In very bad cases one may have to continue this bark cutting for four years.
It is a very good plan to mark the trees which are to be removed with a ring of white paint. If you, yourself, do this, then those you are employing to do the digging up of the trees will not make any mistakes.
The work took forty hours. This method, I understand, does definitely prevent bird damage.
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When fruit tree was dug at the nursery to be transplanted into your garden, about half of its root system was inevitably lost, and an equal amount of top growth must be removed to bring top and bottom into balance again.
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