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Posted on 9:34 AM by Wanto and filed under
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Fruit Trees
By Darell Real
The pruning of an old neglected tree is often quite a problem. Invariably there is a lot of dead wood, and this of course must be removed first. Next one has to tackle the crossing and rubbing branches.
Generally speaking, the rotivation plus the incorporation of the grass and weeds is not quite sufficient to adjust the nitrogen deficiency and so in addition hoof and horn meal or dried blood with a content say, of 12 per cent nitrogen, may be used at 2 cwt. to the acre. Feather waste at 4 cwt. per acre, rabbit waste (Flick) at 3 cwt. per acre, or rabbit fur cuttings at a similar rate are suitable alternatives.
Start then by removing such branches and being sure to make the saw cuts right the way down to their base so that you do not leave an offending snag which may be a perpetual source of trouble later. Sometimes it is possible to cut one of these branches back to another branch lower down growing in the right direction.
Be sure to use a very sharp pruning saw for all this work. You must have a saw which will cut green wood smoothly and fast. You must be sure that the bottom side of the branch is sawn through an inch or two before you tackle the upper surface. If you do not, it may easily split off due to its weight and will cause a very nasty jagged wound in consequence. See that the ladders you use during the pruning are in really good condition.
In December the trees will receive their winter spray treatment with a tar-oil wash, and this will help to encourage growth and 'act' similarly as a dose of nitrogen. It will kill all the mosses and lichens which are feeding on the trunks and branches of the trees and so give them a better chance of growing as they should.
In the case of grass orchards, there must be free passage for the Haytor or mowers. The grower, however, will do, say, 50 per cent of the work the first year and finish the job off the following season, or, in very bad cases of neglect, the author has known it necessary to carry out only a third of the work in season No. 1 and so not to have the pruning completed until the third year.
Generally speaking, the rotivation plus the incorporation of the grass and weeds is not quite sufficient to adjust the nitrogen deficiency and so in addition hoof and horn meal or dried blood with a content say, of 12 per cent nitrogen, may be used at 2 cwt. to the acre. Feather waste at 4 cwt. per acre, rabbit waste (Flick) at 3 cwt. per acre, or rabbit fur cuttings at a similar rate are suitable alternatives.
Start then by removing such branches and being sure to make the saw cuts right the way down to their base so that you do not leave an offending snag which may be a perpetual source of trouble later. Sometimes it is possible to cut one of these branches back to another branch lower down growing in the right direction.
Be sure to use a very sharp pruning saw for all this work. You must have a saw which will cut green wood smoothly and fast. You must be sure that the bottom side of the branch is sawn through an inch or two before you tackle the upper surface. If you do not, it may easily split off due to its weight and will cause a very nasty jagged wound in consequence. See that the ladders you use during the pruning are in really good condition.
In December the trees will receive their winter spray treatment with a tar-oil wash, and this will help to encourage growth and 'act' similarly as a dose of nitrogen. It will kill all the mosses and lichens which are feeding on the trunks and branches of the trees and so give them a better chance of growing as they should.
In the case of grass orchards, there must be free passage for the Haytor or mowers. The grower, however, will do, say, 50 per cent of the work the first year and finish the job off the following season, or, in very bad cases of neglect, the author has known it necessary to carry out only a third of the work in season No. 1 and so not to have the pruning completed until the third year.
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Most soils are of a pH suitable for growing garden fruit trees; to get optimum growing conditions, extremely acid or alkaline soils can be adjusted by adding limestone or sulfur.
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