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Fruit Trees
By Goldilocks Gold
If possible there should always be a branch on one side of the tree corresponding to a similar branch on the other side of the tree. The pruner ensures that branches grow out in this way, by notching the buds on the main central stem, in the winter during the first five or six years. When a nick or notch is made just above a bud in one-year- old wood a shoot will develop.
On the other hand, when a nick or notch is made in the bark just below a bud in one-year-old wood a fruit bud will be formed. The pruner therefore can have his growths produced where he desires, and in cases where he doesn't want a fruit bud, or a wood growth, he can cut out the bud altogether. Sometimes this is advisable if he wants to ensure that the other nicked buds grow as desired.
Instead of pruning back the one-year-old tree or maiden quite hard, the grower aims at producing an erect stem with side branches growing out of it. This is in contrast with the normal bush tree, which of course has an open centre. If the maiden is not strong, he may prune it back to a height of about 3 feet, and from this pruned back stem he will train on the shoot which has formed from the top bud, to take a vertical position. Thus he continues the centre erect stem and yet ensures that the tree is quite strong.
The procedure for the second year is then repeated year after year, until the tree is about 5 feet 6 inches tall. At that stage the central shoot may be left unpruned, though, if because the season has been wet the top growth is very vigorous, then the entire shoot may be removed in the middle of May, by cutting it back to the topmost sideshoot found below it.
At the same time the leaders or one-year-old end growths on each branch were pruned back by about half, or, if they were growing very strongly, by a quarter. The laterals which were pruned back quite hard in their turn produced a number of secondary laterals, and these in their turn were pruned back hard also. The result was that rather complicated fruit spurs were produced which entailed a great deal of pruning each winter. I have myself, in the early '20s, pruned back well over 300 laterals on each branch of a tree.
He sees to it that the branches are spaced out over the length of the central stem, and thus the necessary light and air can get in to ripen the wood and later on the fruit.
On the other hand, when a nick or notch is made in the bark just below a bud in one-year-old wood a fruit bud will be formed. The pruner therefore can have his growths produced where he desires, and in cases where he doesn't want a fruit bud, or a wood growth, he can cut out the bud altogether. Sometimes this is advisable if he wants to ensure that the other nicked buds grow as desired.
Instead of pruning back the one-year-old tree or maiden quite hard, the grower aims at producing an erect stem with side branches growing out of it. This is in contrast with the normal bush tree, which of course has an open centre. If the maiden is not strong, he may prune it back to a height of about 3 feet, and from this pruned back stem he will train on the shoot which has formed from the top bud, to take a vertical position. Thus he continues the centre erect stem and yet ensures that the tree is quite strong.
The procedure for the second year is then repeated year after year, until the tree is about 5 feet 6 inches tall. At that stage the central shoot may be left unpruned, though, if because the season has been wet the top growth is very vigorous, then the entire shoot may be removed in the middle of May, by cutting it back to the topmost sideshoot found below it.
At the same time the leaders or one-year-old end growths on each branch were pruned back by about half, or, if they were growing very strongly, by a quarter. The laterals which were pruned back quite hard in their turn produced a number of secondary laterals, and these in their turn were pruned back hard also. The result was that rather complicated fruit spurs were produced which entailed a great deal of pruning each winter. I have myself, in the early '20s, pruned back well over 300 laterals on each branch of a tree.
He sees to it that the branches are spaced out over the length of the central stem, and thus the necessary light and air can get in to ripen the wood and later on the fruit.
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When the trunk tip of the fruit tree in the garden grows 12 to 15 inches higher, two more buds are chosen and the process is repeated.
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