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Posted on 10:48 AM by Wanto and filed under
By Kenneth Carlson
Stout dahlia branches loop may be prevented by driving in additional supports in a triangle round each plant, some little way from the stem to avoid damaging roots, pointing outwards at the top. These supports need not be as stout as the central stake, and even quite light canes may be used.
It follows that it is advisable to take plants struck at different times if a wide variation in blooming period is required, and to pinch the tops out at varying times. This will ensure, not so much that a bloom on a particular plant will be ready at a certain date, but that blooms will be available at that date, rather than a big flush of blooms all within a few days of each other, which might he at a period when there is not a suitable show.
The first is the removal of all competition from weeds. The ground should be kept scrupulously clear of weeds by using a dutch hoe at reasonably frequent intervals during the first few weeks after planting. Later the use of a hoe will be inadvisable owing to the presence of feeder roots close to the surface.
To prevent branches from being forced out of the socket by their own weight (this is particularly prevalent in branches developing low on the main stem), it is an excellent plan to insert short lengths of cane exactly parallel with each branch and to tie the branch to this support. This will give ample support until such time as the branch becomes long enough to be secured in the normal fashion to the main stake or wires.
Once the dahlias start to grow strongly the question of staking and tying will become of increasing importance. The central stake, unsupported, is seldom sufficient, unless very stout, when the developing branches may be simply looped back to it by soft string.
But the danger here is the tendency for the whole plant to swing in a circular fashion around the stake during high winds.
It follows that it is advisable to take plants struck at different times if a wide variation in blooming period is required, and to pinch the tops out at varying times. This will ensure, not so much that a bloom on a particular plant will be ready at a certain date, but that blooms will be available at that date, rather than a big flush of blooms all within a few days of each other, which might he at a period when there is not a suitable show.
The first is the removal of all competition from weeds. The ground should be kept scrupulously clear of weeds by using a dutch hoe at reasonably frequent intervals during the first few weeks after planting. Later the use of a hoe will be inadvisable owing to the presence of feeder roots close to the surface.
To prevent branches from being forced out of the socket by their own weight (this is particularly prevalent in branches developing low on the main stem), it is an excellent plan to insert short lengths of cane exactly parallel with each branch and to tie the branch to this support. This will give ample support until such time as the branch becomes long enough to be secured in the normal fashion to the main stake or wires.
Once the dahlias start to grow strongly the question of staking and tying will become of increasing importance. The central stake, unsupported, is seldom sufficient, unless very stout, when the developing branches may be simply looped back to it by soft string.
But the danger here is the tendency for the whole plant to swing in a circular fashion around the stake during high winds.
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