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Posted on 7:53 PM by Wanto and filed under
By Michael Hills
In the case of thorny branches it is necessary first to remove the thorns that would hamper insertion. In the case of shrubs that do not root easily the lower tip of the cutting can be dipped in a hormone rooting preparation. Stimulators and instructions for their use may be normally purchased in any shop selling gardening supplies.
Hardwood cuttings require little care. All that needs to be done is removal of weeds and watering during dry spells. Within three to four weeks a callus (healing tissue) forms on the bottom of the cutting and usually soon after the first roots appear. The roots of most hardwood cuttings are well established by early winter.
For the same reason. it is sometimes recommended to take cuttings with a heel, i.e. with a sliver of the old wood where the shoot arises. This method is used mainly in the case of shrubs that do not root readily for it is possible to make only a limited number of such cuttings.
When taking winter cuttings the soft tops of the shoots are removed. The cuttings are either inserted immediately in a nursery bed or are tied in bunches of 25-50 and stored in moist sand in a cool shed or put in sand or peat out in the garden.
The root cuttings are inserted at an angle and care must be taken that this is done with the top part (the cut closer to the stem) up. The cuttings are then covered with a 1 cm layer of the same mixture. Afterwards, the soil is well watered and the box placed in a dark place with a temperature of about 15C.
Subsequently, the cuttings should be sprayed lightly from one to several times a day and shaded from full sun. After the callus or first roots appear watering should be gradually increased.
Hardwood cuttings require little care. All that needs to be done is removal of weeds and watering during dry spells. Within three to four weeks a callus (healing tissue) forms on the bottom of the cutting and usually soon after the first roots appear. The roots of most hardwood cuttings are well established by early winter.
For the same reason. it is sometimes recommended to take cuttings with a heel, i.e. with a sliver of the old wood where the shoot arises. This method is used mainly in the case of shrubs that do not root readily for it is possible to make only a limited number of such cuttings.
When taking winter cuttings the soft tops of the shoots are removed. The cuttings are either inserted immediately in a nursery bed or are tied in bunches of 25-50 and stored in moist sand in a cool shed or put in sand or peat out in the garden.
The root cuttings are inserted at an angle and care must be taken that this is done with the top part (the cut closer to the stem) up. The cuttings are then covered with a 1 cm layer of the same mixture. Afterwards, the soil is well watered and the box placed in a dark place with a temperature of about 15C.
Subsequently, the cuttings should be sprayed lightly from one to several times a day and shaded from full sun. After the callus or first roots appear watering should be gradually increased.
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Wood is probably the most versatile and often the cheapest and easiest material to use in your garden plan if you are building your own garden enclosure.
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