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Fruit Trees
By George Kalmbacher
Scab, a fungus disease, causes black marks on the apples, which sometimes join to form black corky patches. It is usually worse on trees which have been excessively fed with nitrogenous fertilizers but is seldom bad where trees have been compost managed and have received sufficient potash. Spraying to kill the disease on the trees may be done with Fuclasin.
The following intensive systems of apple culture have been designed with the idea of producing superior 'extra select' apples, not only high in colour but rich in sugars also. It enables a man or woman to manage not only the land but the trees as well, without having to use tall ladders either for spraying or for picking. The trees are easily get-atable, troubles can be detected immediately and quite a small area of land produces an astonishing yield.
The exact height and width of the tree is known before the orchard is planted and so it is possible to plan in advance how to make full use of the available machinery to carry out the routine work.
The system involves a planting density of 600-750 trees to the acre, the optimum planting distance being 5 feet between the trees in the rows and 12 feet between the rows. The trees are usually allowed to grow to a height of 12 feet. The individual 'pillar' tree consists of an upright central stem forming the framework from which radiate the various lateral growths (there are no side branches whatever). The framework is built up to form an upright, rigid and permanent support for the fruit without requiring any additional support, at any time in its life.
The lateral growths on which the crop is formed radiate direct from the central stem. These fall into three age groups according to the time they have been left growing on the central stern. There is the one-year-old lateral which has grown during the past season. This one-year-old lateral is left full length when pruning takes place, and in the following year the 'wood buds' on the lateral will develop into fruit buds over nearly its entire length.
Bitter pit is undoubtedly due to allowing the tree to be unbalanced either by too heavy pruning, by giving too much nitrogen or by allowing the roots to be too dry in a droughty season. Once again, a dose of organic potash will help, as will correct management of the trees.
The following intensive systems of apple culture have been designed with the idea of producing superior 'extra select' apples, not only high in colour but rich in sugars also. It enables a man or woman to manage not only the land but the trees as well, without having to use tall ladders either for spraying or for picking. The trees are easily get-atable, troubles can be detected immediately and quite a small area of land produces an astonishing yield.
The exact height and width of the tree is known before the orchard is planted and so it is possible to plan in advance how to make full use of the available machinery to carry out the routine work.
The system involves a planting density of 600-750 trees to the acre, the optimum planting distance being 5 feet between the trees in the rows and 12 feet between the rows. The trees are usually allowed to grow to a height of 12 feet. The individual 'pillar' tree consists of an upright central stem forming the framework from which radiate the various lateral growths (there are no side branches whatever). The framework is built up to form an upright, rigid and permanent support for the fruit without requiring any additional support, at any time in its life.
The lateral growths on which the crop is formed radiate direct from the central stem. These fall into three age groups according to the time they have been left growing on the central stern. There is the one-year-old lateral which has grown during the past season. This one-year-old lateral is left full length when pruning takes place, and in the following year the 'wood buds' on the lateral will develop into fruit buds over nearly its entire length.
Bitter pit is undoubtedly due to allowing the tree to be unbalanced either by too heavy pruning, by giving too much nitrogen or by allowing the roots to be too dry in a droughty season. Once again, a dose of organic potash will help, as will correct management of the trees.
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Once you have know the basics of fruit tree gardening, you can get out your tools and go to work.
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