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Posted on 11:29 PM by Wanto and filed under
By Abraham Kiyoski
The strong-growing varieties can be grown as cordons if the site is warm and the soil good. The rows have to be 6 feet apart and the cordons 10 feet apart in the rows. The cordons are trained horizontally and thus stakes and wiring must be provided. Under this system a stake with a minimum diameter of 3 inches, and preferably chestnut, should, when 2 feet of its base has been thoroughly treated with Cuprinol, be driven into the ground securely so that the top is 2 feet 3 inches above soil level.
They could also be grown on the 'Grow as you like' system, being allowed to scramble over a trellis or cover a fence or wall. Under this system very little pruning is necessary, though it does pay to cut back the fruiting laterals in the summer at two leaves above a bunch.
The leaves of the vines grown against walls are often attacked by Red Spiders, and the answer here is to syringe the under surface of the foliage in the evening, twice a week, from the beginning of June onwards. In cases of bad attack some liquid derris should be added to the water.
Do not, however, allow 12 rods to be produced or you may not be able to ripen the fruit. Stick to 6 or 7 rods tied to strong bamboos or stakes to form a goblet and gradually these shoots will bear more bunches of grapes up to, say, 8 per rod. Do not be tempted to reduce the pruning by cutting say to 5 buds, and do not be tempted either to try and make the vine crop more heavily.
Powdery Mildew causes white patches to appear on the leaves and then the fruit, then the young shoots. Individual grapes that are attacked will either fall or go rotten. Vines that are mulched are seldom attacked with mildew, and when the young laterals are properly spaced out, so that they are not overcrowded, this disease seldom appears. Dusting the plants with a fine sulphur dust largely cures the trouble when seen.
When growing a vine against a wall the pruning may be similar. The rod instead of being taken along a lower wire can be trained, with a main rod growing upwards and with side permanent rods trained out at right angles. Thus a series of horizontal cordons are formed and the laterals they produce are pruned back hard each January. These are tied to wires stretched tightly in between the main wires.
They could also be grown on the 'Grow as you like' system, being allowed to scramble over a trellis or cover a fence or wall. Under this system very little pruning is necessary, though it does pay to cut back the fruiting laterals in the summer at two leaves above a bunch.
The leaves of the vines grown against walls are often attacked by Red Spiders, and the answer here is to syringe the under surface of the foliage in the evening, twice a week, from the beginning of June onwards. In cases of bad attack some liquid derris should be added to the water.
Do not, however, allow 12 rods to be produced or you may not be able to ripen the fruit. Stick to 6 or 7 rods tied to strong bamboos or stakes to form a goblet and gradually these shoots will bear more bunches of grapes up to, say, 8 per rod. Do not be tempted to reduce the pruning by cutting say to 5 buds, and do not be tempted either to try and make the vine crop more heavily.
Powdery Mildew causes white patches to appear on the leaves and then the fruit, then the young shoots. Individual grapes that are attacked will either fall or go rotten. Vines that are mulched are seldom attacked with mildew, and when the young laterals are properly spaced out, so that they are not overcrowded, this disease seldom appears. Dusting the plants with a fine sulphur dust largely cures the trouble when seen.
When growing a vine against a wall the pruning may be similar. The rod instead of being taken along a lower wire can be trained, with a main rod growing upwards and with side permanent rods trained out at right angles. Thus a series of horizontal cordons are formed and the laterals they produce are pruned back hard each January. These are tied to wires stretched tightly in between the main wires.
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