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Posted on 11:59 PM by Wanto and filed under
By Daniel Country
After planting the vine is allowed to grow naturally for two seasons. One should then find that two quite long rods have been produced, together with some side growths or laterals. In January the laterals are cut back to within one bud of their base, while the smaller of the two canes is cut back to within two buds of its base.
The methods must inevitably vary, depending on the climate, the method of culture and training, and to a certain extent on the individual varieties. Thus pruning on the shores of the Mediterranean is bound to differ enormously from that done, say, in Devonshire. As my friend Mr. Edward Hyams points out, however, in his book The Vineyards of England, published by Messrs. Faber and Faber, there are certain general rules which must be borne in mind.
A vine can be cut hard year after year without there being hardly any increase in height, though there will be an increase in girth. In addition, vines in this country, because of the climate, are usually pruned harder than those on the Mediterranean. The fruit is borne on the new wood; that is to say, the wood made that season.
Meanwhile a strong growth will be developing froth the base of the vine rod that was cut back hard in January. This should be allowed to grow upright and should be tied to the stake or wires. Any side growths that develop will be pruned back to one leaf, and if any flower trusses are seen, these will be pinched up.
The following January the cane that has borne the fruit in the summer will be pruned, back to within an inch of its base, while the other cane that was trained upwards will be curved round to take the place of the one which was cut back. Thus year after year you ensure replacement of strong young wood, plus heavy cropping.
Some people allow two canes to develop each year: they cut one back hard and they train the other one round. This does ensure a stronger growth and the original bearing rod can then be cut right the way back, so as to prevent it growing again.
The methods must inevitably vary, depending on the climate, the method of culture and training, and to a certain extent on the individual varieties. Thus pruning on the shores of the Mediterranean is bound to differ enormously from that done, say, in Devonshire. As my friend Mr. Edward Hyams points out, however, in his book The Vineyards of England, published by Messrs. Faber and Faber, there are certain general rules which must be borne in mind.
A vine can be cut hard year after year without there being hardly any increase in height, though there will be an increase in girth. In addition, vines in this country, because of the climate, are usually pruned harder than those on the Mediterranean. The fruit is borne on the new wood; that is to say, the wood made that season.
Meanwhile a strong growth will be developing froth the base of the vine rod that was cut back hard in January. This should be allowed to grow upright and should be tied to the stake or wires. Any side growths that develop will be pruned back to one leaf, and if any flower trusses are seen, these will be pinched up.
The following January the cane that has borne the fruit in the summer will be pruned, back to within an inch of its base, while the other cane that was trained upwards will be curved round to take the place of the one which was cut back. Thus year after year you ensure replacement of strong young wood, plus heavy cropping.
Some people allow two canes to develop each year: they cut one back hard and they train the other one round. This does ensure a stronger growth and the original bearing rod can then be cut right the way back, so as to prevent it growing again.
About the Author:
Grape is a long lived and deeply rooted deciduous climber in your fruit tree garden.
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